Thirty years ago the Ffestiniog
Railway re-opened all the way to Blaenau and there will be a series ofspecial eventsfrom
5thto 7thMay
to celebrate the anniversary. It is also thirty years since the death of
Colonel Campbell who rescued Plas y Dduallt from dereliction and did much to
help the railway.
Farm buildings next to the house were
used by the ‘deviationists’ between 1965 and 1973 during which time an
estimated 10,000 bed nights were enjoyed. These days it is known as Campbell’s
Cottage and is available for holidays. We are currently booked until 21st
September apart from the weeks beginning 15th and 22ndJune.
Details at www.campbellscottage.co.uk
In return for his help the Colonel
gained Campbell’s Platform and the right to operate his own engine; aptly named
‘The Colonel’. The siding has gone but the private platform remains – guests to
the cottage can stick out a hand and a steam train will grind to a halt. The story of his eccentric commute is told in a 1974 BBC documentary called 'The Campbells Came by Rail'.
On 18th
June MV Balmoral will sail round Anglesey, a six hour voyage with spectacular
scenery for just £35. Should be on the bucket list for heritage enthusiasts. This is what it looked like when we did it:
Campbell’s Cottage is currently free for the week beginning Friday 6th July; indulge yourself with a private platform onto the world’s
oldest operating steam railway. Cottage
details at www.campbellscottage.co.uk
A few miles
away, near the Glaslyn osprey nest, there’s a natural rock shelter, protected by an
overhanging cliff. A friend was climbing there one Christmas Day when he
noticed a limpet shell in a crevice ten or more metres above where the sea would
have been before the Cob. How did it get
there?
Limpets from
three different sections of the site have been carbon dated to 7379, 9281 and
9349 years ago. Other shells have been uncovered as well as cockles, mussels
and oysters and remnants of hearths where stone age man may have steamed his
Fruits de Mer. A particularly
Mediterranean version with mussel shells from a warm water species never before
found in Wales. In amongst the shells are pieces of bone, probably from deer,
which suggest that this was a temporary shelter for hunters on an expedition.
How the
shells and bones have remained in tact is a stroke of good fortune. The natural
acidity of the soil in much of north Wales would have caused them to
disintegrate but the overhanging rock leaks lime thereby changing the chemistry
and preserving the relics.
Over forty worked
pieces of flint have been found and at the end of the dig this April a
perfectly formed flint arrow head, probably from the bronze age. If this is the
case, then it looks like the rock shelter was used over a period of at least
5000 years.
Good for
flirting. Young billies born above the railway line two years ago have crossed
the track and started chatting with the females beneath the line. Their
advances seem to be being encouraged; note the casual flick of the horns by the
young female. But the much older billies, from beneath the line, are not
impressed and find their massive horns good for posturing.
All horns
are good for scratching and also for scraping bark off young trees ... just
peeling off enough to grip between the teeth and have a decent snack of birch.
I hope the warden does not see this film.
You never
know what you might see through the kitchen window. Freshly stocked bird
feeders and half coconut shells stuffed with fat and seed tempting the tits,
chaffinch, woodpecker, nuthatch, yellow hammer, dunnock and squirrel. Chickens scooping up the spillings. Touch
wood no rats this year just wood mice and voles and ..... wow, it’s a weasel.
It hopped onto the window sill, down to the patio then up into a
drainage pipe. I fetched the camera,
tripod on the kitchen table and pointed it at the end of the pipe. Success. Out
it came with a vole or mouse in its mouth then off behind planters and into the
log shed.
My few
seconds of video stretched with the slow motion facility ... but how do I know
it was a weasel? I think there’s a touch of black at the end of its tail making
it a stoat. What do you think?
A local explorer come bee-keeper, historian and
general enthusiast kindly took us into the safe bits of Rhosydd quarry. The
scale of the workings is immense. We entered the long adit on level 9 treading
carefully to avoid the deeper water draining outwards; a reminder that the five
levels below are all flooded. This long adit took eight years to carve out with
miners working from both ends ... no laser guided gadgetry, just Victorian
engineering skills to pinpoint the seamless join.
Here and there were what looked like bits of
tree root on the floor, rusting strands of the cable that pulled slate wagons
in and out on the rails. At the end of the adit, rails branched off in
different directions, close to the connection with the five levels below. Slate
from below was dragged upwards to level 9 by a water powered incline.
A large slab of slate on the floor, with chain
attached ready for lifting onto a wagon, now painted with eight large yellow
letters: R O C K F
A L L.
Until a couple of years ago it was popular and
easy to walk the mile through adit 9 then up to level 6 and out of the West
Twll (west hole) where the slate works had begun. Falling rocks have blocked
this route although I’m told you can nip and tuck your way through if you know
what you’re doing. No-one can vouch for how safe this might be.
For the extremely intrepid, with caving equipment, back up and a guide,
there is the Croesor to Rhosydd crossover – just a mile in length but a good
eight hours long if all goes well. I’m told it begins with a 200 foot abseil.
Here’s a clip of the zipwire in use.
Opposite the entrance to adit 9, across the cwm,
is probably the most impressive engineering feat of all, an exceedingly steep
incline for exporting the slates, at its top steeper than 1 in 1. Nothing was
impossible to the Victorians.
Campbell’s
Cottage, surrounded by 200 acres of National Nature Reserve, is a great place
to get close to wildlife. Whether it’s wild goats trampling through the
bluebells, woodpeckers feeding their young or mother otter teaching her
offspring to catch fish; you never know what you might see. Some visitors come for the birds (great for
pied flycatchers, redstarts, nuthatches and yellowhammers) others for bats (we’ve
got a greater horseshoe) or for moths – in one week an enthusiast identified
180 different species of moth in the cottage garden.
Released 9th April 2012
Just in case
you don’t see what you’re looking for, we’ve provided a copy of the Wild Wales
DVD box set presented by Iolo Williams.
The third DVD covers north Wales and ends with spectacular footage of the
Maentwrog osprey diving into the Dwyryd estuary. After several attempts, he’s a
bit young and inexperienced, he catches and repositions a fish mid flight, to
be head first aero dynamic. He then flies at eye level past Portmeirion’s
visitors seemingly oblivious to the natural spectacle.
After days
of scorching sun we had a blizzard, heaping drifts of snow onto west facing slopes
and boulders. Before it melted we went
exploring and playing. An April’s day in Val de Stiniog.