Scots Pine and Sycamore

To make it safer and prolong its life the Scots Pine had a light trim with all the dead wood and about 10% of the canopy removed. Tricky work dangling from a rope. More drastic action was taken with the rotten Sycamore next to the cottage. Clinically despatched from top to bottom without puncturing the oil tank or damaging the fence. Great work by local contractors Treevolution.

The best things in life are worth waiting for

I was busy working in the garden when I heard an up train that sounded different and sure enough it was the fourth gravity train of the Alan Pegler weekend. Tools down and cameras collected, I raced up to Campbell’s Platform and waited and waited. Eventually I heard it, but what came round the bend was much bigger than the head brakesman. Surely the gravity train will be hot on its heels. I hung around until lunchtime and, seeing as the family was relying on me to prepare it, I went down to the house. I was just about to go in when a lone engine came rolling past. Surely this time there will be a gravity train in pursuit? I need not have run back up the hill, it was ages before it came but as ever it was worth the wait. By the time I got back to the kitchen there were three empty bowls of soup and one that needed a quick blast in the microwave.

Old wood sheds new light

Richard Suggett, from the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales (RCA&HMW), gave an excellent lecture to the Meirionnydd History Society titled Searching for the Oldest Houses in Wales.

1402 seems to be the date of the oldest (dated) house in Wales that we know of and that’s Hafod y Garreg, near Builth Wells, described on the Alastair Sawday website as a particularly fine B&B! It’s thought that during the crushing of the Owain Glyndŵr rebellion (1400 to 1410) all (or just about all) other buildings of any significance were destroyed.

Tree ring dating, or dendrochronology, is the technology that gives us the scientific certainty of 1402. This involves taking a fat, pencil-shaped core out of beams and then measuring the growth rings of the tree to match the rings with known growth norms. In a cold year the rings are very thin, whereas in a warm year, with a good supply of rain, the rings are thicker etc. There’s a lot of skill and know-how in doing this including taking a sample which starts from the outermost skin of the tree towards the centre of the trunk. The outermost skin of the tree is called sapwood and this, especially in a 400 to 500 year old beam, can be very crumbly and prone to disintegrate. If the sapwood crumbles away, the best you can achieve, because these represent the final years of growth, is a date range as opposed to a specific year.

The technology is relatively new but since the 1980s its use has grown dramatically with about 250 houses in Wales now dated. Of these, about a third have been tree-ring dated as part of the Dating Old Welsh Houses Project which has been led by Margaret Dunn. This has radically changed our understanding of the local architectural scene and in particular the ‘Snowdonia house’.

After Glyndŵr the first significant houses or ‘hall houses’ to be built were quite grand or very high status buildings – built by people with the most power and wealth. Examples include Abbey Farm (1441) by Cymer Abbey, just north of Dolgellau, or Plas Uchaf (1435) which is not far from Corwen. Plas Uchaf was restored by The Landmark Trust and is now available as holiday accommodation. 

From 1450 to 1500 most of the surviving buildings are referred to as ‘gentry halls’ i.e. quite posh whereas most of the buildings from 1500 to 1550 are ascribed the term of ‘peasant halls’ - the same basic shape or design as the posh version but much smaller and less grand. Then came the ‘Snowdonia house’, built on two floors with a substantial staircase.

The earliest Snowdonia house, with the date of 1585 inscribed on it, was thought to be the start of the era for this style of building. New evidence has blown this wide open and we now think the Snowdonia house started to appear in 1515 and that the style was fully matured by 1557. An example being Plas y Dduallt (trees chopped down between 1559 to 1565) with farm buildings now converted into excellent self-catering accommodation called Campbell's Cottage - historic homes and holidays are a good match!

Without the research of the Dating Old Welsh Houses Project with the support of the RCA&HMW we might never have known this. Whereas northwest Wales was previously considered an architectural backwater it is now considered to have been an area of great innovation, not just a belated follower of fashion.

Thank you Richard for an excellent lecture. Thank you Margaret for leading our project and congratulations on being made a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of London. For she’s a jolly good …..

If you’d like to know more about, or get involved with, the Dating Old Welsh Houses Group - click here.  

Goat Train, Gravity Train

It was all happening at Campbell’s Platform this afternoon. First we had a goat train and then  we had a gravity train, a particularly long and impressive one - apart from the head brakesman who showed a distinct lack of puff with his bugle. For a while I thought he was going to forget his duty. The train marked the start of a weekend of celebrations to celebrate the life of Alan Pegler OBE, the late president of the Ffestiniog Railway. 

Singing for William Hill in Llandudno

It was great to be a member of the choir at St Paul’s Llandudno on Saturday 29^th September. We formed at 10am, a very mixed bag in which most people already belonged to a choir and were familiar with the pieces to be sung.

For some reason I had assumed the choir would be much bigger than the forty we were and was feeling a bit exposed at being 20% of the bass line! But Michael crossed over from the tenors and then we were six.

At 7:30pm we were on stage by the altar singing a bit of Messiah and then the ‘Palestrina’ but my favourite was Vivaldi’s Gloria. With Chris like a tuning fork on my left and Michael on my right, nudging me when to sing or stop, and various hand movements to indicate a wrong note or which bar we were in – I muddled through and loved the experience. My first time in a choir since schooldays.

Our goal was to help raise funds for the William Hill organ installed back in 1910. A total of £150K is needed but I think sufficient funds are now available for at least the bellows to be fixed. This is what a 102 year old organ sounds like in a cold church with a very high ceiling:

Thanks everyone for making it such a great occasion and to Alison Smith for organising it.

Campbell’s to Blaenau with views

This year’s mini-fest of walking began with a breezy walk to Bwlch Stwlan, along the miners’ tramway then across the plateau to Rhosydd. From here to Cwm Corsiog and up the ridge, with deep views of Cwmorthin, to Llyn Conglog whose fish were wiped out in the severe winter of 1947. In recent years members of the Cambrian Angling Club have carried some 25,000 baby wild brown trout by rucksack for release in what must be the highest fishing lake in Wales. 

Onwards from here it was virgin ground for me with great 360° views. From Allt Fawr, below us the wasteland of the Oakeley and Gloddfa Ganol quarries with Blaenau behind.  Across, the spectacle of downhill bikers, dropped at the top by yellow mini bus, snaking down the mountainside.  

We followed the ridge down onto and across The Crimea past ‘Esgidiau Meirw’, the pile of military surplus ‘dead boots’ burnt here at the end of the war.  All that remains are the rusty eyelets, nails and horseshoe bits for toe and heel. There was once a monumental stone, but that disappeared some years ago.  

Onwards up Moel Farlwyd then Moel Penamnen, down across the moorland to the incline above Maenofferen. Negotiating the path, overgrown with rhododendron ponticum, was not easy – must do something about this. Finally, into the centre of Blaenau with slate sculptures and a smart looking Gwesty Tŷ Gorsaf where once was a grotty Queens Hotel.

After seven hours of walk the tea and carrot cake of the Bridge Café were most welcome. Then steam back to Campbell’s? We missed our connection so Sue kindly picked us up.

One man and his dog

September heather is blooming. Bracken is turning to gold. First cranberries are out on the sphagnum moss. Dragon and damselflies are making the most of late sunshine.  Wild brown trout are high up the small stream.  And Molly could fetch Frisbee all day long. It's one of the best times of year.