Days to remember; on the Wales Coast Path

Despite the yo-yo forecast Saturday was a dream day on Llŷn. Starting at the northeast end of Porthor (aka Whistling Sands) we walked to the headland at Uwch Mynydd without seeing a soul; lots of white horses from the north and a fast moving sail doing many more knots than us.

Sheltered behind the old coastguard building we munched Kurdish pasties from Kurmang, the baker in Blaenau Ffestiniog. Warming and filling - yum. A Devil’s Coach-Horse beetle came to investigate, its tail raised scorpion-like, but we had none to share. From here we could see Parys Mountain near Holyhead and to the south what looked like Pembrokeshire. With binoculars we think we saw the mountains in Ireland. Wicklow?

Choughs choughing or chowing galore and gannets swooping over the waves – no chance of spotting dolphins in all that surf. However, in a sheltered cove, a pair of seals; male and female? No sign of a pup but were the plaintive moans her labour pains?

Five hours later we made it to the beach at Aberdaron and walked through the waves into the sea; bit of a shock to begin with but a great swim. Dried off at the top of the beach; no wind here, the heat of the sun stored in the sea wall and the sand. Not a goose bump in sight. Tea, Bara Brith and home – memories are made for days like this.

Aberdaron and the Wales Coast Path

We had the coast path to olurselves

If you’re looking for an add on to your stay at Campbell’s Cottage you could try what we just did, a pilgrimage to Aberdaron at the tip of the Llŷn Peninsula, staying right on the beach and walking sections of the Wales Coast Path.

Our room at the Tŷ Newydd had a mini balcony overlooking the beach beneath, with the sea just a stone’s throw away at high tide; could probably skim stones from the bedroom. Falling asleep with curtains and door wide open was great. The crab salad, with a shared portion of chips, was luxury; best crab we’ve ever tasted.

We walked the coast path from Whistling Sands back to the hotel, about 9 or 10 miles, with a few bits of up and down. After cappuccino at Whistling Sands we didn’t see a soul for the next 3 hours. Along the way so many wild flowers, birdsongs and sounds of the sea, snails galore and stunning blue butterflies in one section. A pair of peregrines swooped along the cliffs and as we approached Mynydd Mawr we were into the land of the chough, with their bright red beaks and legs and cat-like calls.

Caterpillar of Lackey Moth in a Sloe Tree

By the time we made it back to the hotel a pint of the local brew, Brenin Enlli, was most welcome. On the second day we walked a section around Penarfynydd, where we saw a hare run across the top of the mountain, and a bit later we walked along the surfers beach of Hell’s Mouth or Porth Neigwl.

So close to home yet a world apart and a great break.